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A few weeks ago, my ResMed Air Sense 10's humidifier stopped heating the water. It's not a major issue for me.
Has anyone experienced this failure?
If the unit has an internal fuse, it would be rather simple to take it apart and change the fuse. However, sometimes the problem lies elsewhere. If so I might call the shop in CA from which I purchased it some years ago.
Thanks,
John
Machine: AirCurve 10 ASV Mask Type: Full face mask Mask Make & Model: ResMed Mirage Quattro Humidifier: ResMed CPAP Pressure: 0-12 CPAP Software: ResScan
SleepyHead
Other Comments: EPAP: 6-12 SleepyHead v1.0.0-beta-2
(09-01-2020, 10:05 PM)johanlon Wrote: A few weeks ago, my ResMed Air Sense 10's humidifier stopped heating the water. It's not a major issue for me.
Has anyone experienced this failure?
If the unit has an internal fuse, it would be rather simple to take it apart and change the fuse. However, sometimes the problem lies elsewhere. If so I might call the shop in CA from which I purchased it some years ago.
Thanks,
John
Mine did the same thing just a couple of days ago. That's why I'm here. Looking for the first step.
Under the humidifier section is a metal plate held on with four allen head screws. I have not personally opened the unit but found anecdotal information
Quote:Using a star (or straight blade small) screwdriver, remove the heater cover on the bottom. There is a fuse, a connector and a rubber gasket there. I have had some success by separating the connector and reconnecting. There is also a fuse that should have continuity both ways.
If you are comfortable with the procedure, open it up and take a picture. Let us know what you find.
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Will try later today when I have a quiet minute. Am a retired experimental physicist and not intimidated by Torx-head screws :-) I just didn't want to open, if I didn't know what I was doing. I learned long ago never to assume, but first to ask.
Thanks; will report back,
j
Thanks for your suggestions.
Opened the humidifier backside: four 5-mm Torx screws.
Attached is a photo of the backside. The thermal fuse is visible in center. Mfr clipped the left side lead short. Fuse was good, copper strip line heater was good. Hence problem is internal. Likely bum power supply. Mfrs often spend 5 cents on a cheap electrolytic in the power supply instead of 8 cents on a long lasting capacitor. However, I will contact DME and see if they will repair it. If they say scrap and buy a new one, because of its age, then I might open its guts.
It was not possible to read the temperature printed on the fuse, because its ink had been scraped when it was inserted under the spring clip used to make thermal contact. Hence, even if it was bad, I would not know what to purchase!
Interesting circuit. A thermistor, the negative temperature coefficient resistor labeled NTC, is used to control the heater temperature, the T-fuse is merely a high temperature limit switch.
hiya, did anything get resolved? i just took my airsense 10 apart to find your pic and little more. Using an ohm meter, all connections touch points confirm it should be ok however mine, like yours, stopped heating a few weeks ago. Water level is slightly down daily when it had used about 1/3 the tank per evening. I have tried manually heating using the warmup and nothing gets warm, especially the plate inside. I suspect as you, an internal setting is not providing power to the plate so makes me wonder where to go from here. I suspect those cpap repair services are really fronts to sell refurb units but realistically if it is an internal failure, maybe that says it all. I have an old packard external humidifier from my first cpap, maybe it is time to dust that off, its not like i need to travel that often these days. Humidity is sure worth the effort however. Good luck to us!
DME says out of warranty, so need to get new one. Problem is ether in supply power or software, and not in humidifier heater component visible when removing panel. This unit is at least six years old if not more.
Interesting comment from supplier. Air Sense 10 "for him", is almost like Air Sense 10 "for her", with two exceptions. First is the "for her" model contains both software algorithms, whereas the "for him" unit contains only the "for him" program. Users of the "for her" machine can chose either mode. Second is the décor! Supplier suggested that my settings were such that I might like the "for her" software better; if not, enter control panel and switch. Units are same price.
Supplier suggested that my settings were such that I might like the "for her" software better; if not, enter control panel and switch. Units are same price. 
