Rainout problem

[VacantSoul]

Hello,  New to the forum.

I keep my bedroom cold at night.  Typically down in the low 60's.  This however is causing rainout with my CPAP.  I have a heated hose with the system which was set to 61.  wake up almost every night with water being shot up my nose.   I have recently turned off the temperature part and reduced the humidity to 1 (it was on 2 before) but I am still unable to get a full night sleep without my machine trying to drown me.

Hoping someone has some guidance they can share with me.  I just don't know what else I can try to do outside of raising the temp in my bedroom which I'd REALLY rather not do.

Thank you.

[SarcasticDave94]

Welcome to Apnea Board.

There's a few options on the ResMed 10 series regarding humidification. On the humidifier itself, you can turn it off, or add humidity from 1-8. Higher numbers mean higher humidity. The humidifier also has 2 modes in Auto and Manual. The auto mode gets signals from the ambient room conditions and adjusts accordingly. Manual can provide more humidity if needed. Secondly is the heated hose. It can be turned off or up to 86 degrees F. Try adjusting between those 3 variables to see if you find the right mix to reduce rainout. I'd consider the heated hose setting first in your case. The reason to turn up the hose heat is to keep the water vapor from falling out of the airstream.

[VacantSoul]

Thank you.  I do already have a heated hose.  Guess I was thinking to turn DOWN the hose heat because the outside air was so much cooler than the air coursing through the hose.  I took it off Auto a while back since it seemed i needed to take care of a few things manually.  guess i'll try upping the temp to see what that does tonight.

[optimalsleep]

insulate the hose

[SarcasticDave94]

Yes that's correct on the hose cover. There's a hose cover that acts as insulation and a cushion. It goes over the hose, even a heated one.

The point on turning up the heat on the hose is that warmer air should keep the vapor suspended longer. The goal is to keep it suspended long enough so you inhale it. You need not go to the max of 86 F., but you could if you want to experiment with extremes. Try about 80 and see what it does. Then if you don't like it there, move it up or down a click or two. Try that and so on until you get it right. You may want Auto mode for the humidifier so as to make it a bit more stable. I prefer manual, because my COPD likes max humidity for some reason. Best on successes.

[OpalRose]

Agree with above on using a hose cover for the heated tube. ResMed sells one with a zipper, so it's easy to get on and off for cleaning.

If you really don't want to raise the temp in your room, then lower humidity temperature and raise tube temperature.

[VacantSoul]

Very much appreciate the responses.  Looking forward to going back to sleeping through the night.

[mesenteria]

I have the heated hose, but it is quite humid here in the PNW of N. America, so I don't really need the humidity.  Mine is set at the lowest number for both heat and humidity.  However, I would still get some rainout unless I insulate the hose.  Some suspend their hoses overhead for ease of sleeping, but I lay mine across my stomach...UNDER the bedclothes.  This way, my body heat warms the tube set at the lowest heat level, and the tube can move with me, curved into a broad U shape over my midriff.

Or, just get a hose sleeve.

[mesenteria]

Thank you.  I do already have a heated hose.  Guess I was thinking to turn DOWN the hose heat because the outside air was so much cooler than the air coursing through the hose.  I took it off Auto a while back since it seemed i needed to take care of a few things manually.  guess i'll try upping the temp to see what that does tonight.

I had a brain fart many years ago when I was faster and stronger, but not so schmartt.  We had just had a home built for us, and we had a hot water/radiator system put in, an efficient modern one with zone controls.  When winter came, and temps were in the 0 deg F range, we wanted the living space to be warmer and the bedrooms cooler, which is normal.  So, I reduce the temp settings in the upstairs area, expecting the boiler to increase temperature where the radiant heat was, in the kitchen and den area.  What I didn't understand at the time was that I was working against myself and the boiler.  My mistake was assuming the radiating surface area serving the downstairs would simply radiate MORE HEAT, and that area would be nice 'n cozy.  It did radiate more heat, but there wasn't enough radiating surface to keep the entire house comfortable.  We felt chilly watching TV.  I finally clued in, one chilly night, and realized I had to turn up the heat upstairs so that those radiators could help with maintaining the temperature inside the entire house, which was a single enclosed system. Needless to say, our experience was greatly improved once I got enlightenment.

In your case, if temperatures drop and the hose lining gets cool, water vapour will also cool and condense.  You must either raise the air temperature, which increases the air's capacity to hold moisture, raise the hose temperature, which prevents condensation on the inner wall, or reduce humidity.  Just don't go turning off your heat radiators like I did back in 1983.

[Big Guy]

Yet another vote for a hose cover.